Here we answer your most frequently asked questions about wallpaper basics.
Anthony Masterson
Q: Isn’t it easier to paint a room than to wallpaper it?
A: Although bothwallpaperand paint liven up dull rooms, wallpaper has special advantages.
Credit:Anthony Masterson
It can camouflage flawed or damagedwalls, soften rough or irregular architectural features, and unite awkward angles.
Q: Isn’t wallpaper more expensive than paint?
One roll of wallpaper, which covers about 30 square feet, might cost around $35.
Credit:BHG / Michela Buttignol
Consider wallpapering just one wall as an accent to keep costs low.
BHG / Michela Buttignol
Q.
What are my options?
Mix wallpaper with other wall treatments. The bottom half of the walls in this foyer are clad in board and batten with a lattice wallpaper above.
The most popular choices for do-it-yourselfers are vinyl and vinyl-coated wallpapers.
They tend to be the least expensive, the most durable, and the easiest to apply and remove.
In a high-traffic area, consider the “cleanability” of the paper.
Use boldly patterned wallpaper in a room you don’t spend a lot of time in and you won’t tire of the pattern quickly.
Washable papers can be wiped only occasionally with a damp sponge.
A scrubbable paper can take more frequent and vigorous cleaning.
Check the label and instructions for your paper.
Should I get prepasted or unpasted wallpaper?
As its name suggests, prepasted paper has paste already applied to its back.
To activate the paste, soak the paper in water.
With unpasted wallpaper, you apply the adhesive yourself.
DIY enthusiasts may also want to research peel-and-stick wallpaper which is easy to reposition.
How do I know how much wallpaper to buy?
Round up measurements and do not deduct for doors, windows, or other openings.
This will allow leeway for pattern matching and trimming.
This will tell you how many rolls you should probably buy; round up to the nearest roll.
What is a repeat?
It’s the distance from the center of one pattern to the center of the next.
It could be an inch, a foot, or more.
A large repeat (6 or more inches) may require extra paper, especiallyif you make some mistakes.
Wallpaper: Getting Started
Q.
Are some rooms easier to wallpaper than others?
A bedroom is a good choice for a beginner.
Can I paper over any wall?
Wallpaper will adhere to drywall, new and old plaster.
you could find wallpaper for concrete walls, masonry, and paneled walls.
No matter what the surface, the key to success in wallpapering is proper preparation of the walls.
How do I prepare the walls?
Close your eyes and run your hands along the wall.
Any bumps you feel will show up after you paper, so sand them down.
Repair small holes, cracks, and other blemishes with surfacing compound, then sand and wipe clean.
If you face a lot of repairs, consider using lining paper.
This is particularly true for new drywall that has been given only a thin coat of paint.
If you don’t prime properly, the wallpaper adhesive will bond with the drywall paper.
Later, when youremove the wallpaper, you may pull away the drywall paper, too.
Be sure to buy a primer specifically designed for wall coverings, not apaint primer.
Tips for Wallpapering
Q.
Where’s the best place to start?
A.It’s not where you start, but where you end up that’s important.
This is called the mismatch.
This takes some planning.
What tools do I need to wallpaper?
For prepasted paper, you’ll need a water tray for soaking.
What’s the first step to hanging?
Cut a length of paper that’s about 4-6 inches longer than the height of your wall.
This extra length will give you some leeway for matching patterns.
Apply adhesive to the strip according to the manufacturer’s instructions or by immersing prepasted paper in water.
This is where booking – a crucial wallpapering step comes in.
A.Booking is a folding and resting process that lets the adhesive activate and the paper relax for easier handling.
Don’t crease it.
Let it sit for the time recommended by the manufacturer.
Where should I hang the first piece?
A.Hang the first strip along the plumb line and allow it to overlap onto the ceiling and baseboard.
Do not use excessive pressure.
Wipe off excess paste with a sponge.
Be careful not to squish too much out of the sides.
This will cause the edges to curl.
How do I hang it straight?
A.Draw a plumb line – a straight, true vertical line – at your starting point.
A plumb line is essential to hanging your wall covering straight.
Align your first strip with the line.
How close do I put the next piece?
A.Edges should be tightly butted, not overlapped or puckered.
Be sure to match the pattern from one piece to the next.
Set seams with a seam roller using light pressure.
What about doors and windows?
Wet the strip and hang it.
Make diagonal cuts near the corners of the rough opening.
Smooth around the frame, then trim.
For outlets, turn off the electricity and remove covers.
Position paper over the outlet and cut an X.
Smooth paper into place.
