Sand-set (sometimes called dry-laid) installations are much easier to build than mortared surfaces.
They don’t require specialized skills, and because there’s no concrete required, they are less expensive.
Plus, the gravel ensures good drainage.
Credit: Ed Gohlich
A properly bedded sand-based paver patio will last for years and require little or no maintenance.
Your dealer will help you convert those measurements to gravel, sand, and paving quantities.
Soil conditions will influence the construction of your project.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Sandy soils drain very quickly but are soft.
Clay is hard and doesn’t drain well.
You’ll need about three days to lay out and excavate a 12x14-foot site.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Prepare the Bed
Outline the shape and size of the patio.
If you plan to include right angles, check them carefully for accuracy.
Allow for a tiny space between pavers sparked by the lack of uniformity from one paver to the next.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Cut Landscape Fabric
Measure and cut out a large piece of landscape fabric to cover the patio.
Thisprevents weedsfrom working their way up through the gravel.
Align the board with the string guides.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Drive a stake on the outside to hold it in place and nail the stake to the board.
Before you nail each board, use the triangulation method tomake sure that everything is square.
Otherwise, the pavers won’t fit evenly.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Then pour in enough gravel to provide a depth of about 1 inch throughout.
Next, make a screed with a short section of 1x4 or other scrap lumber.
Prepare a Sand Bed
Add a layer of builders sand on top of the gravel.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
To calculate the sand depth, subtract your pavers' thickness from 4-1/2 inches.
Run string from one end of the patio to the other to form a guide line.
This will help keep the pavers straight.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
It’s much easier to re-screed small areas of disturbed sand.
Spray the entire patio with a mist to help settle the sand.
Allow the sand to dry.
Credit: Thomas Rosborough
Then add a second layer of sand, sweep it into place, and wet it down.
Repeat this process a week later or whenever you feel a paver wobble.
Measure the length of the mason’s line between the stakes in feet, then multiply by 1/4.
On the low stake, move the level line down by that much.
Pull the screed across the surface in a seesaw motion; you’ll need a helper for large areas.
Then fill in depressions, dampen the sand, and tamp it.
Credit: Image Studios
When the site is level, fill the recesses with sand, and tamp again.
Then, you’ll have less cutting to do at the edges.
Then lay out your site to these dimensions.
This material conforms to almost any arc.
Drive spikes through the flanges' holes, ensuring they penetrate the soil below the gravel.
Stone:Substitute stone for the pavers.
There are several beautiful varieties available in many different shapes and thicknesses.
You also can experiment with different edging materials.
Concrete:Fill the entire bed with concrete, then use stamps or stains to add texture or color.
