Find out what’s available and use the actual measurements to draw a dimensioned plan.
Most timbers come in 8-foot lengths, perfect for steps 4 feet wide.
Use a pattern composed of whole bricks so you’re free to avoid cutting them.
Then, use the dimensions of this mocked-up section to cut the timbers to fit.
The plan shown here uses rebar to anchor the timbers into the soil.
If your soil is sandy, use a 2-foot length of 3/4-inch pipe or steel conduit instead.
Lay out the site with stakes and mason’s line.
Cut timbers to these measurements and test-fit them around the brick.
Square the corners with a framing square.
Drive the spikes with a small sledgehammer.
Mark the middle of the timber also.
Drill a 1/2-inch hole through the timber.
(You’ll drive rebar anchors through these holes when you set the frames.)
Lay a4-foot levelacross the sides of the frame and level it.
Slope the frame from back to front at the rate of 1/4 inch per foot.
The slope is correct when the bubble is centered.
Lay Second Frame
Lay the second frame on the first.
Drill three pilot holes through the top timberand partway into the bottom one.
Then, drive12-inch spikesinto the holes.
Make sureeach frame is levelfrom side to side before installing the next one.
Tamp down the soil in each recess with the end of a 2x4, then laylandscape fabricon the soil.
Shovel in the gravel, level it, and tamp it.
Add the sand and tamp it as well.
Level Sand
Make a recessed screed by nailing a 1x4 to a 2x4.
The bottom edge of the 1x4 extends below the frame by the thickness of a paver.
Screed the sand level and smooth.
Mist the joints and brush on more sand, repeating the process until the joints are filled.
However, the 5-1/2-inch riser height may not be suitable in all instances.
load the gravel and sand, then screed the sand in the recess.
Spread fine sand on the surface and sweep it into the joints.
Mist the sand with water, add more sand, and repeat the process until the joints are filled.