Practice cutting copper pipe and sweating joints before you kick off.

Copper supply lines are usually routed so they do not cross drainpipes or vents.

In most cases, it’s easier to make the horizontal runs in the crawlspace or basement.

trough sink in bathroom

Long runs and bends lower water pressure slightly.

Hammer arresters (Step 3) prevent banging noise when you turn off a faucet.

Hot water is always on the left, cold water on the right.

drill holes in floor for pipes

For example, the shower faucet in this plan calls for vertical pipes 10 inches apart.

Arrange Copper Supply Lines

Tie into existing copper supply lines.

A toilet stub out is usually 8 inches above the floor.

man placing pedestal sink brace

Dry-fit a complete assembly for the sink and the toilet.

Install a hammer arrester to each.

Sweat the Pipes

Sweat all the parts.

man placing copper pipes

Anchor the pipes with at least one clamppreferably twoat each stub out as shown.

Attach Copper Supply Strap

A copper supply strap attaches to the face of the studs.

Pipes fit into notches or holes, sized and spaced for correct placement.

screw on pipe clamp

The pipes can be soldered onto the strap using the same techniques as for sweating fittings.

A drop-ear elbow makes the most secure attachment.

Insert a brass threaded nipple into the elbow.

copper supply strap

This arrangement makes for smoother water flow and less loss of water pressure than using 90-degree elbows.

close-up drop ear elbow and brass nipple

forty five degree elbow around pipe

man placing protective nailing plate