Few things are as frustrating as an uncooperative door.
We’ll help you troubleshoot the problem and then show you how to fix it.
The door itself may be solid-core, hollow-core, or made of panels.
An interior door usually has two hinges, and a heavier exterior door usually has three.
Stop molding is positioned so the door bumps against it when closed.
On an exterior door, there is often a deadbolt lock as well.
The holes and strike plate must be correctly positioned for the door to close properly.
Hinges are attached to the other edge of the door with screws.
They grab effectively only in solid wood (not particleboard).
A squeaky hinge may only need a squirt of the right lubricant.
If you see rust, first use penetrating lubricant to free rusted parts.
Then apply powdered graphite or silicone lubricant for a longer-lasting solution.
Also, use lubricants to free a balky latch bolt.
On the jamb leaf of a hinge, long screws are effective if they can reach house framing.
Where the screws would go into drywall, shorter screws are just as good.
What Is Door Binding?
A binding door may need to be planed, but often simpler repairs will solve the problem.
If a door binds on the latch side at the top, the upper hinge may be loose.
Tighten the screws or repair the screw holes.
If the hinge side binds, one or both hinges may need to be shimmed out.
If there is binding along the top or the bottom, the door needs to be planed or trimmed.
First, score the paint line where the stop meets the jamb.
Then tap in two putty knives and begin prying.
Step 2: Remove Stop
When the separation is large enough, insert a flat pry bar.
Keep one putty knife in place to avoid damaging the jamb.
Gently work your way down the stop until you’re free to remove it completely.
Tap the pin up with a hammer and screwdriver and pull it out.
On some hinges, you must tap a nail up through the bottom of the hinge first.
Put the pins back into hinge leaves so you will not lose them.
Use as many shims as needed to bring the strike flush with the jamb.
If neither fix solves the problem, remove the strike plate.
Use a knife and chisel to cut a mortise and enlarge the hole if needed.
Drill pilot holes and reattach the strike plate.
Fill the exposed mortise area with wood putty and sand smooth.
The ideal is a 1/8-inch gap between the door and jamb at all points.
Mark both sides of the door.
Step 2: Adjust Plane
Adjust a plane so the blade barely protrudes beyond the base.
Test on a scrap piece of wood; the plane should easily produce very thin shavings.
you could use a shaping tool, but the resulting edge will require sanding to make it smooth.
Step 3: Plane the Door
Set the door on the floor so it is stable.
Hold the plane flat on the door edge and press down as you push forward.
Don’t force the plane; use moderate pressure.
Plane with the grain.
If the plane chatters or gets stuck, plane in the opposite direction.
Step 4: Sand Smooth
Plane down to the scribe lines.
Sand the edge smooth and slightly round the corners with a sanding block.
Finish the edge to match the door.
First, use the plane or a sanding block to bevel the outside edge so it won’t splinter.
Step 2: Plane the Rail
Plane the rail in both directions.
The result at the rail will be somewhat rough but sandable.
Mark the cutting line and then scribe about 1/16 inch above the cutline with autility knife.
This is especially important when cutting across the grain or cutting a plywood veneer.
Step 2: Saw Door
Start the cut with a square as a guide.
Stop the saw after cutting 3 or 4 inches.
Remove the square and push a straightedge against the base of the saw.
Step 3: Clamp and Measure
Clamp the straightedge at one end.
Make the cut, holding the saw’s baseplate against the guide.
Measure the distance between the top of the door and the frame; subtract 1/8 inch.
Cut using a circular saw or a table saw.
For an exterior door, rip stock to the thickness of the door to cut the piece.
Step 3: Attach Extension
Applywood glueto the top of the door.
Attach the extension piece by drilling pilot holes and driving finishing nails or screws.
Plane or power-sand the piece on both sides so it is flush with the door.
Fill the joint with wood putty and sand again before painting.
