Credit the shingle sidingthose tapered, rustic-looking cedar pieces often applied to the exterior walls of seaside dwellings.
Whether stained or painted, weathered or well-maintained, cedar siding is never short on curb appeal.
We dont blame you if you swoon every time you pass a cottage decked out in cedar.
Credit: John Merkl
For example, 16-inch-long shingles should be installed with about five-inch exposures.
Second, its sometimes recommended that you leave 18-inch gaps between shingles, since cedar shingles can swell slightly.
Check with your supplier to be sure.
Credit: Dave Toht
So grab an assistant and start installing cedar shake siding.
Apply self-adhesive flashing tape to corners and around windows and doors to block out moisture and air.
Take special care not to crease the wrap or flashings.
Credit: Dave Toht
Apply Trim
Install exterior trim around the windows and doors as needed.
Select a wood stain or material for the trim that will complement your new shingle siding.
(You don’t want narrow pieces above or below doors or windows.)
Credit: Dave Toht
you’re free to also use the swing-stick method to keep the layout consistent.
If so, mark the wall to correspond with the rest of the swing stick’s marks.
Install Corner Trim
Next, install inside corner trim pieces.
Credit: Dave Toht
A 1x1 board ripped from 5/4 cedar decking is often the ideal size.
(Hint: Hold up several layers of shingles to check that the trim is thick enough.)
Begin Installation on Exterior Corner
load the first starter-course piece at an exterior corner.
Credit: Dave Toht
It should overlap the corner by about one inch.
Use a small level to hold it plumb and attach with two nails or staples.
Less-expensive, low-grade shingles can be used as the starter course.
Credit: Dave Toht
Use a utility knife to roughly cut the excess from the first piece.
Slice once or twice, then snap the shingle apart.
Trim Shingle
You may need to touch up the corner for a smooth edge.
Credit: Dave Toht
Use a small block plane or Surform plane to trim the shingle edge flush.
When building a corner, trim and plane each piece before moving on to the next course.
Use a straight 1x4 as the guide and 1x2s as the hangers.
Credit: Dave Toht
Check that it’s level and fasten it with three-inch screws.
This will hold the plank you’re installing in place, ensuring accurate overlap.
You will likely need to cut the last pieces in each row.
Credit: Dave Toht
Adjust the stapler so it drives the staples just flush and does not indent them.
Continue Along Corners
Now build up all of the exterior corners.
Drive nails or staples about an inch above the exposure so they will be covered.
Credit: Dave Toht
Check your layout marks every few courses; complete 10 courses per corner.
Trim and plane each corner board before you plant the next course.
(You will not need to plane any shingle edges for inside corners.)
Credit: Dave Toht
Repeat this process until you’ve covered your entire project space, building the corners up farther as needed.
Work Around Windows
Continue installing your shingle siding around windows and doors.
To accommodate corners, notch-cut the shingles to fit.
Credit: Dave Toht
Avoid placing a joint less than one inch from the corner.
That way, the full-thickness pieces installed over them will be correctly flared out from the wall.
Work Around Spigot
To accommodate a spigot, turn off the water and remove the hose spigot.
Credit: Dave Toht
Use a drill and a hole saw to cut a neat hole in the shingle.
Caulk the gap before replacing the spigot.
Where possible, load the angled pieces first, then fill in with full-length pieces.
Credit: Dave Toht
Then install shingles one or two inches above the flashing.
Credit: Dave Toht
Credit: Dave Toht
Credit: Dave Toht
Credit: Dave Toht
